Morninglory Persians:
breeding from your Persian

If you are intending to breed from your Persian you are embarking on a hobby which can be facinating, time consuming, sometimes heart breaking, and often very rewarding. This is not a profit making venture - just the opposite - like most hobbies it can be fairly expensive - the more deeply involved you become the more expensive it may become. You owe it to the kittens you breed and to their perspective owners to ensure that your kittens have the best possible start.

So where do you start? If you are wise enough to decide you intend to breed before you buy your kitten, take your time - don't rush into things! Don't run out and buy one of each colour - it's not a sweet shop. Remember you can't specialise in everything and quantity rarely means quality. Go to a few shows and talk to some breeders. Even if it seems that everyone has a different opinion, listen and take what seems logical. Have a look through some general information on choosing a kitten. Most importantly find out what the Standard of Points for the breed says: what are the good points to look for and what are the features to be avoided. While there is no such thing as a perfect cat, if you intend to breed you should purchase a female kitten as near to the standard as possible - faults can be very difficult to breed out and colour faults should not be disregarded as a mismarked kitten is just as unacceptable as a foundation queen as one which has poor conformation. Any such faults will be passed on to the progeny and you will simply breed them into your kittens so get a copy of the Standard of Points and list of defects for the breed you are interested in. These can be obtained from the Governing Council of the Cat Fancy. In addition to considering the kitten's suitability in terms of the Standard of Points for the breed you should also ensure that you purchase from a breeder who places health and temperment high on the list of priorities. Temperment (both good and bad) can also be inherited as can other qualities which relate to suitability for breeding and health, e.g. PKD (a hereditary condition all too common in some lines of Persians). More information on PKD can be obtained from the Feline Advisory Bureau. The FAB site now has a section on information for breeders and is worth a visit.

When you have chosen the breed you are interested in, buy the best quality female you can afford. It is a mistake to buy a male and a female. If you want two kittens, buy 2 girls of compatible colours. How do I know if the colours are compatible? The breed club or registering body should be able to give you information on registration policies and recommended breeding policies. The Governing Council of the Cat Fancy (GCCF) should be able to provide you with this information and details of how to contact a breed club secretary.

How do I find a breeder? The breed club should be able to give you contact details of a breeder in your area. Try to visit the breeder on more than one occasion, but remember that even the most reputable and organised breeder will not appreciate your turning up unexpectedly. (Even breeders have a life.) Be wary of a breeder who offers you a kitten at a much cheaper price than anyone else - this could be a costly 'bargain'. Be very wary of a breeder who has little interest in finding out where and how the kitten will be kept - breeders who give their kittens the best start will also want to ensure they go to the best homes.

Once you have your kitten it is important to give it the best possible foundation with a good diet, regular veterinary care and lots of love. Take time to find out about the breed and if possible to either show your kitten or visit a few shows. This should help you to recognise what to look for in a perspective mate for your girl and probably even enable you to find a suitable male within reasonable travelling distance.

Dos and Don'ts of buying a kitten:

• Ask to see the mother of the kittens (and if the sire of the kittens is owned by the breeder ask to see him too.)
• Check that the breeder is aware that you wish to breed from the kitten and that its registration allows you to do so. The kitten needs to be registered on the 'active' register and this should be evident from the registration /transfer certificate. This is an A5 piece of paper and is different from the pedigree. Ensure that the breeder gives you a transfer of ownership. If the kitten is not on the 'active' register, you will not be able to register its kittens and a stud owner would be reluctant to allow your girl to be mated to his/her stud.
• Ask about the kittens finer points and faults (no animal is perfect and a reputable breeder should be willing to advise you what to look for when you are choosing a mate for your girl)
• Ask about the breeding record of the dam and the other females in the line (poor mothering or poor breeding seems to run in lines)
• Ask to see the pedigree and cheque that it complies with a breeding / registration policy that may exist for the breed.
• Ask about the faults and show winners in the line. (After all if you are going to breed you should be looking to improve the breed you have chosen)
• If possible go back and see the kitten a second time before you buy.
• Be wary of the breeder who 'pushes the sale' as opposed to one who is concerned to ensure that you are going to give the kitten a good home.
• Don't buy an unhealthy kitten just because you feel sorry for it. Problems such as Cat Flu can produce a carrier state which means the problem can be passed on to future kittens. Other conditions such as PKD may be inherited.
• Check out the GCCF breeders' code of conduct and the list of defects before you buy

How do I know when to mate my queen? Generally a female cat (queen) will come into season anything between 9-18 months. (Persians can be quite late callers.) The female may become friendlier and may go off her food. She should display the characteristic signs of being in season: rolling on the floor or dragging herself along the floor, posturing with her bottom in the air and tail arched to one side, treading with her back feet - and of course the vocal demands that give rise to the term 'calling.' The call can last from a few days to as much as two weeks and while some female cats may only call a few times a year or only early in the season others may come into call every few weeks. If you have a young female it is useful to allow her to develop a calling pattern before you mate her so you know how often she is likely to call, how strongly and for how long. Generally speaking for a maiden queen it is best not to mate her on the first call as it may not be strong enough and you will have a wasted journey. As a rule of thumb it is best not to mate a female much under a year old and not to let her call for too long, ideally not more than 3 times before trying to mate her. Hopefully both of these will coincide!

How do I find a stud for my queen?
Many breed and area clubs keep stud lists, but the best way to choose a stud for your girl is to attend shows and see which boys are siring the winners. A good rule of thumb is to go for the sire of the winners rather than the fashionable cat of the moment. Choose a cat which is strong in the features your queen lacks. Another important factor is the distance you may have to travel as it is not a great idea to take a maiden queen a great distance. Once you have chosen the stud you wish to use, have a word with the owner to see what arrangements she would like to make and the stud fee. You will probably need to take your queen to stud on approximately her second day of call and leave her until she has been mated over 24-48 hours.

Questions to ask:

• What tests does the stud owner require? Most stud owners will wish to see an FELv negative certificate for your cat and may wish to see clear tests for other infectious diseases or hereditary conditions such as Polycystic Kidney Disease (PKD). You should also see clear tests for the stud.
• Does the stud owner do supervised matings? - always recommended
• Does the stud owner offer a repeat mating in the event of and unsuccessful mating / an unsuccessful pregnancy?
• Is the stud from a good breeding line and long-lived parentage? - health and fertility are hereditary features too.

You should also ask what faults the cat sires (no stud sires perfect kittens) and what good points is he usually strong in.

When you get to stud look around and satisfy yourself that the conditions your cat is to be kept in are clean and safe - if not take her home. It is better to be a bit embarrassed and have a wasted journey than to have a tragedy.

What should I expect from the stud owner?

• The stud owner should ask for sufficient information to ensure that your cat is healthy and suitable for mating (e.g. questions about health, inoculations, age etc).
• The stud quarters should be secure, clean heated in cold weather and well ventilated in warm weather; should provide your girl with sufficient space to move about; space for litter tray, food & water; and should provide space for the female to be separated from the stud when not being mated - remember your girl is going to live in these quarters for several days.
• The stud owner should be able to show you a copy of the stud's pedigree and test certificates etc.
• When you collect your girl the stud owner should provide you with a mating certificate showing the stud's pedigree and the mating dates if the queen has been mated.
• Ideally the stud owner should be able to give you an idea of what colours you may expect from the mating.

What should I expect after the queen is mated?

At approximately 21 days you should see a reddening of the teats which should also be slightly plumper. At approx 5 weeks the queen should be filling out and at 7-8 weeks you should be able to feel the kittens move. Feed the girl and let her live a normal life.

Preparing for the birth

The kittens may be expected approximately 62-65 days after mating, but some queens have been known to go a few days longer.

• Give your girl a safe secluded place that she can get used to and which you can get at easily if she needs help. Your girl may favour the back of a cupboard or under the bed, but if she needs help it may be almost impossible to reach her easily in such a place.
• About a week before the kittens are due gently clip the fur from under her tummy so the kittens can get to the teats and the fur from around her trousers and tail so she can clean herself up easily after the birth.
• Collect some newspapers and soft material with which to line the kittening box (old flannel sheets are just perfect for this). You should also have a heating pad or hot water bottle to keep the babies warm while the queen is having the next kitten.
• It is always useful to have a foster feeding kit and supplemental feed in case your queen has milk problems. Most vets can supply you with a suitable choice in feed and most breeders can advise you on their feed of choice.
• Buy or borrow from the library a couple of books which include chapters on kittening so you know what to expect.

Most importantly be there to help your girl if needed. don't panic and don't invite the neighbours - this is not party time! Your girl needs peace and quiet!

Dealing with newborn kittens

Hopefully mum will deal with the kittens, but maiden queens in particular can be rather confused about what to do so

• Clear the kitten's mouth and nose with a dry cloth, but if the placenta (afterbirth) is still inside the queen and attached to the kitten do not break the cord as the placenta may be retained. It is important that the queen passes each placenta so take note of this.
• Once the placenta has been passed, if the queen has not broken the cord, tear it gently between the nails of your finger and thumb and gently press the end of the cord to stop the bleeding. An ideal length is about half an inch - too long and as the cord dries it may get caught and tear - too short and it may allow for infection.
• Gently rub the kitten dry, but try not to turn it on its back as this may make it swallow fluid.
• If the kitten is moving and squeaking place it on a warm pad near mum to keep warm while the next kitten is born.
• If it is not moving, clean the mouth and nose, hold it with face pointing down - open its mouth and swing slightly and very gently to clear the mouth and nose of fluid - ensure you are supporting the head and body - rub the kitten gently and it should respond.
• Once all the kittens are born the queen should clean herself up so remove any soiled bedding and give her clean dry bedding. Do not use towelling or cellular blankets as the kittens' claws or cord can become entangled. Equally do not use bulky bedding as many queens tend to scratch the bedding aside and the kittens can become trapped and smother.
• It's a good idea to weigh each kitten and record its weight. Thereafter a daily weigh in when you change the bedding will show if the kittens are feeding and thriving.
• Place the kittens with mum and ensure that they are all feeding.
• Keep a watchful eye to ensure that the tired girl does not lie on the kittens, but give her peace. It's not a good idea to have a lot of 'visitors' to the new family or to let the tiny babies be handled too much as this will not only disturb the queen but may introduce infection.
• Check the cords daily to ensure there is no sign of infection and check the kittens' bottoms to ensure mum is cleaning them.
• The kittens' eyes should open in 10-14 days and then the fun begins as you watch them grow and their personalities develop.

  Remember when you sell your adorable little balls of fluff and mischief you have the same responsibility to the prospective owner as you hoped the breeder of your kitten would have and you also need to abide by the GCCF breeder's code of conduct.

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