Morninglory Persians:
caring for your Persian

When I place a kitten in a new home it goes with 'printed instructions'. This is intended as a reference sheet for first time owners, but many more experienced Persian owners have found it of use.  Please feel free to download and use, but I would appreciate a mention. If you have any tips you would like to add, I would love to hear from you.

Please remember that cats and kittens are very curious and may climb into washing machines, dryers , dishwashers and freezers. many cats and kittens die this way each year. Always check before you close the door.

Diet:
All cats need a varied and balanced diet and clean water should always be available. Many cats can not tolerate milk and will quickly develop an upset stomach after drinking it. It is not advisable to feed dried food in large quantities and offal, liver etc., should not be fed more than once a week. Never feed raw meat and milk within two hours of each other, especially in the case of a kitten, as this combination can also cause an upset stomach. Kittens of up to 6 months of age need 4 small meals a day decreasing to 3 at six months old and 2 for an adult cat. When decreasing the number of meals, remember to increase the amount of food given at each meal. A rough guide as to amounts to feed a kitten: a kitten’s stomach is about the size of its skull. Some Persians do not seem to be able to tolerate dry complete food. (See feeding problems in Persian cats.)

Never give cats anything containing: aspirin, bromide, morphine (such as kaolin and morphine), castor oil and avoid using shampoos containing laurel as these can all prove fatal.

For upset tummies: 1 ml infant kaolin (without aspirin or morphine) or Bismuth Subcarbonate - enough to cover an old sixpence. Please note: Upset tummies, esp. diarrhoea can be indicators of serious problems or can themselves become very serious as kittens dehydrate very quickly. Always seek veterinary advice.

Grooming:
A Persian needs regular grooming and firm, but gentle handling. Generally, the best grooming tools are: a metal pin brush with rounded ends, a good bristle brush and, when necessary a round tooth metal comb. Lie the cat on its side and work slowly down from the head, brushing the coat forward towards the head, a small section at a time. Be sure to brush from the roots to the tips of the coat, otherwise the coat will tangle at the roots. Pay particular attention to the area around the bottom and under the front legs. Turn the cat onto its side and repeat the procedure until you have groomed tummy, both sides and back. It may take a little while to train your Persian kitten to this grooming routine, but it does make things easier. A regular dusting of talc will help to keep the coat clean and knot free. Use a good baby powder and not a perfumed talc which will irritate the cat’s skin and eyes. Part the coat and powder to the roots, taking care not to get powder into the eyes or up the nose, then brush the coat thoroughly.

Never wet a matted coat or bathe a cat with knots. This will only serve to make matters worse. If your Persian's coat becomes badly knotted it is better to cut the knots away (taking great care not to cut the cat) than to cause the cat discomfort by trying to comb the knots out. (The cat would only be less willing to be groomed in the future).

Another interesting point is that your Persian's coat may be more likely to knot quickly if the cat sleeps in a bed with a fluffy (fur-like) bed. If the bed has a reversable cushion, turn it fabric side up and not 'fur' side up.

Care of ears:
It is important to check the ears regularly. Wipe around the folds with dry or slightly damp cotton wool or a cotton bud, but never probe more deeply than you can actually see. A cat's ears should rarely show more than a slight filmof wax. A build up of wax or a foul smell indicates infection or ear mite. Consult your veterinary surgeon.

Care of eyes :
Check your Persian’s eyes checked daily. The area around and under the eye should be wiped gently with cotton wool. If there is a slight build up of matter this may be removed with damp cotton wool or a mild solution of salt and water. (I use a well know brand of eye wash and find this most successful. However be aware that some cats can react adversely to  all kinds of solutions.) Contrary to popular opinion, a cat without problems should not have excessively runny eyes.  A thick or purulent discharge indicates problems and your vet should be consulted. A Persian’s face is more likely to become stained if you use wet rather than dry or damp cotton wool. A mild solution of camomile tea can sooth irritated eyes, but beware - it may stain esp in the cast of white cats.

Stud tail:
This is a greasy patch or area along the spine of the tail. Although the name would suggest, this is not a condition confined to entire males. It is important to keep this area clean and prevent a build up of grease which can result in hair loss and even abscesses. A regular dusting with powder during grooming should prevent problems, but the greasy build up can be removed by bathing the tail.  

Bathing:
It may occasionally be necessary to bathe your Persian so it is a good idea to get the cat used to this early on in your relationship. I have found that the best way to do this is to stand the cat in an empty bath and use a shower hose. (It is possible to buy a plastic one.) Remember that the cat’s body temperature is higher that yours, so while the water should not be hot, water which feels lukewarm to you may feel quite cool to your cat. Some dog shampoos are not safe to use on a cat so read the label carefully or use a shampoo specially formulated for cats. Baby shampoo does not usually do the job effectively.

It is important to brush the coat thoroughly before wetting it otherwise it may matt. Wet the coat, shampoo thoroughly (clean hair should feel squeaky between the fingers) and be sure to rinse every trace of shampoo out. Although a creme conditioner may seem like a good idea, I would never recommend using one as I find it makes the coat look greasy and may even encourage matting in a dry coat. Take care not to get shampoo into the eyes or ears, but the surrounding area may be wiped with cotton wool if necessary. Brush the coat knot free before drying. Dry the coat with a hand dryer and then keep the cat out of draughts for a few hours to prevent it from catching a chill. A dusting of baby powder will absorb any final dampness from the coat. The powerful dryers specially designed for animals may be expensive, but are an excellent investment if you have more than one Persian or if you intend to show. Go for one which is not too noisy even if you have to sacrifice a bit of drying power - your cat will object less.

Fleas & worming:
Any cat can get fleas, but they need to be eradicated as quickly as possible before they get a foothold in the environment because they can cause your cat a considerable amount of discomfort and may be a source to tapeworm infection. There are a number of preparations on the market, such as FrontlineŠ which is available form your veterinary surgeon. (in the UK at least)

Cats should be wormed regularly, at least twice a year. Reactions to overdosing with worming preparations can be quite serious so always consult your vet who can prescribe the correct preparation and dosage for your cat.

Please note:
These tips are not intended as an alternative to veterinary advice and your vet should always be your first port of call. His/her advice should be sought before you use any preparations other than those prescribed by your vet.

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